Making a Move: Portland's xobruno relocates

Kline describes handbags as “mysterious containers that hold private, often precious and important things.” Keep an eye out for several upcoming projects from xobruno, including a belt created in partnership with Tucson blacksmith Carson Terry. 

By Laura Aguilera-Flemming

After moving from Olympia, Washington, to Portland in 2003, Michelle Kline wanted to make some quick cash. To bring in the green, the designer created several leather handbags to sell at a local holiday bazaar. One of Kline’s bags ended up in Seattle, on the shoulder of a woman who wore it through the doors of a now-defunct Capitol Hill boutique. The shop owner, looking to stock more trend-forward products, contacted Kline in the hopes of carrying her collection. Without so much as a production sewing setup or website, Kline took on her first wholesale account and jumped headfirst into the world of product design and manufacturing..

Kline’s brand, xobruno, is a tribute to her maternal grandmother, whose maiden name was Bruno. Her grandmother taught her how to crochet, embroider, and sew as child, and Kline credits her as a large influencer of her current pursuits.

In March, Kline moved again—this time from Northeast Portland to a larger studio in the Burnside neighborhood. Her new ground-level space features a small showroom with a work studio in the back, along with big windows that let in plenty of natural light. “I’ve always wanted a little shop,” Kline says, “so the change was for the best. I couldn’t be happier.”

Each xobruno bag is made with hand-cut whole leather hides. They are designed to be classic yet rugged and practical. xobruno’s current collection is composed of 10 handbags, as well as several styles of wallets, pouches, and cases for both men and women.

“Cutting into leather hide is like a game of Tetris,” Kline says of her creation process. “Each hide is different in size and shape so I have to consider the entire piece before cutting into it. I lay out the varying pattern pieces in a way to get the most use out of the material and to avoid large amounts of waste.”

 “Leather, in my opinion, is one of the best materials for the Pacific Northwest climate,” Portland-based designer Michelle Kline says. “It's versatile, waterproof, and can withstand rain, sun, and cold. Our canvas is wax-infused, making the product water-repellent. It’s perfect for the rainy season.” 

Images courtesy of xobruno. 

GRAY Conversations: Fashion on the Rise Panelist Q&A Part 2

Our third Sorrento Series GRAY Conversation, in partnership with IDSWest, is tomorrow. GRAY is bringing together some of the region's top fashion designers for a conversation about what's happening in the PNW fashion world. From clothing and jewelry to handbags and shoes, this panel of sartorial all-stars will talk about how we went from sportswear to street chic. We chatted with our panelists about the start of their careers, their favorite garments, and who they dream of dressing.

Join us at the Sorrento for cocktails (cash bar) in Top of the Town at 6 pm. Panel discussion starts at 7 pm. 

Tickets are still available HERE. 

MICHAEL CEPRESS

How would you describe your personal style?

It’s about merging historic styles with my own modern designs to create a soulful, authentic expression of who I am. I try to infuse each of my styles with the perfect combination of inspiration from the past and something brand-new from my mind. It ends up looking something like buckskin fringe with modern denim, Chelsea boots with riding pants, or my very favorite Masonic jacket from 1915 with high-waisted cords… and heaps of hand-woven scarves and as much jewelry as I can muster.

How did you first get into fashion?

I started sewing as a child and found that fabric was the thing I was most excited to work with. Years on stage with a rock-and-roll band were followed by years in art school that formed a life completely surrounded by clothing. Every facet of my life today is about the cultural impact clothing can make. I seek this through my own work as a fashion designer, and also when I teach art at the University of Washington. 

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever made?

American Flag prism vest by Michael Cepress;
Image by Chandler Coles

My favorite piece is my American Flag prism vest from my 2013 American Dreaming Collection. This piece is constructed from actual 1940s and 1950s flags.

What is the most exciting part of the fashion scene here in the Northwest? 

What excites me most is Seattle’s interest in knowing where things come from, and individuals finding a way for fashion to express who they truly are. While mass-produced box-store fashions exists, there is a culture of people interested in knowing the true origin of the things they bring into their lives—their food, their clothing, etcetera—and doing it in a way that is particularly in touch with their lifestyle and personal philosophies.

What fall trends are you looking forward to most?

I look forward to the cultural trend of people ditching fast fashion in exchange for the much more meaningful and powerful designs of independent artists and craftspeople.

In my world, I am getting into this even more deeply through my new role as Guest Curator at the Bellevue Arts Museum. This fall we will be making a great splash with an exhibition, “Counter-Couture: Fashioning Identity in the American Counterculture,” a large-scale exhibition devoted to the best and brightest handmade styles from the 1960s and 1970s. These clothes show you how to pack amazing amounts of style, politics, and personal identity into every thread on your back.

If you could design an outfit for anyone, dead or alive, who would it be?  

Little Richard.

NICOLE BRIDGER

How would you describe your personal style?

I dress to feel good. I like to be comfortable while feeling feminine. It’s more important to wear what you like and what looks good on your body rather than what’s trendy.

How did you first get into fashion?

In 7^th grade we made boxer shorts in our home economics class and that was it. I loved sewing right away.

The Compassion dress by Nicole Bridger.

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever made?

The compassion dress, from my Spring 2012 line. It comes back season after season and people still love it. The drape is interesting yet timeless. It has a modern romantic feel to it.

What is the most exciting part of the fashion scene here in the Northwest?

The innovation around sustainability. It’s a newer industry for the West Coast; we don’t have old traditions that we are struggling to change. We can create it however we want.

What fall trends are you looking forward to most?

I don’t believe in trends. We need to have a deeper relationship with our clothing than allowing someone else to tell us what is hip to wear. That said, I love fall; it is a fun time to get out the sweaters, scarves, boots, and hats and layer them all together.

If you could design an outfit for anyone dead or alive, who would it be?

My mother’s mother. I never got to meet her; she died when my mom was 12. She was beautiful and had great style. It would be lovely to have a conversation with her.

GRAY Conversations: Fashion on the Rise Panelist Q&A

Our third Sorrento Series GRAY Conversation, in partnership with IDSWest, is this Thursday. GRAY is bringing together some of the region's top fashion designers for a conversation about what's happening in the PNW fashion world. From clothing and jewelry to handbags and shoes, this panel of sartorial all-stars will talk about how we went from sportswear to street chic. We chatted with our panelists (check out the blog tomorrow for the second half) about the start of their careers, their favorite garments, and who they dream of dressing.

Join us at the Sorrento for cocktails (cash bar) in Top of the Town at 6 pm. Panel discussion starts at 7 pm. 

Tickets are still available HERE. 

SUK CHAI, SCHAI

How would you describe your personal style?

Non-bounded. I want things to be not-too-perfect. Timeless with unique artistic elements. Approachable with a bit of messy-cool.

How did you first get into fashion?

I think it started with paper dolls when I was a little kid growing up in Korea in the 70s. I was the last of my siblings, so I wore hand-me-downs and waited up to six years for my brother’s tweed double-breasted coat. I always wanted to have clothing that was just for me, so the easiest and cheapest way to do that was to make my own paper dolls and their clothing.

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever made?

The Duplex Sleeveless Coat
Image: Charlie Schuck. Model: Katie Joy Blanksma    

Every season I have my favorite. I am obsessed with the Duplex Sleeveless Coat from the upcoming FW2015 Collection, which was inspired by the World Trade Center Twin Towers, built in 1972. It looks amazing on every height and figure, creates multiple looks, and is appropriate for every occasion.

What is the most exciting part of the fashion scene here in the Northwest?

There is this zen-ness in the culture. Seattle is not about glamour and showiness; we care about the story behind each design and its materials, and how they inspired the creator as well as the consumer. Whether a piece is up-cycled or brand-new, it’s conscious design with purpose. In Seattle, we are more cognizant of how and where things are made; therefore designers are very conscious to create beautiful things that are meaningful and will last. 

What fall trends are you looking forward to most?

Coats. Oversize coats, sleeveless coats, dress coats, cropped coats, maxi coats, sweater coats… It’s all about the coats.  

If you could design an outfit for anyone, dead or alive, who would it be?

Tilda Swinton. No question about it. She is magical.

MICHELLE LESNIAK

How would you describe your personal style?

I would describe my style as an eclectic razor blade. I dress in soft, romantic clothing with edge, mixing modern and vintage. Oh, and I love a good black bra moment!

How did you first get into fashion?

I started sewing and altering my own clothing in high school. With little money for back-to-school shopping, I would go to local thrift shops and buy by the pound, then alter the pieces to create something new. I love clothing with a story, which is why vintage has such a special place in my heart, and why I design emotive pieces.

Pieces designed for LED dance company. Image courtesy of Michelle Lesniack.

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever made?

Oh golly. This is a tough one! Every new garment I make is my favorite. I am in love with with the work we did for an upcoming dance company called LED based out of Boise, Idaho.

What is the most exciting part of the fashion scene here in the Northwest?

What I love about the fashion scene here in the Northwest is that it is ever-changing, like the weather. It is also accepting of all styles and letting one’s freak flag fly. I like being different, and the PNW gives a hug to those trend-setters and dressers of different styles.

What fall trends are you looking forward to most?

Layering. Burgundy is back again! Print mixing and heavy floral—think bohemian brocade!

If you could design an outfit for anyone, dead or alive, who would it be? 

Currently it would be: Florence Welch, Rooney Mara, and Rosalind Russell in Auntie Mame.